The Concise Gastronomy of Italy
by
Anna del Conte
Order:
USA
Can
Pavilion, 2005 (2001)
Softcover
Reviewed by Hilary Williamson
A
nna del Conte tells us that
The Concise Gastronomy of Italy
is '
the culmination of my long love affair with the food of Italy and the culture that lies behind it.
' She begins with a historical perspective on Italian cuisine (including the origins of spaghetti and a mention of many early cookbooks), discusses the country's '
culture of food
', and presents specialties (and wines) of the different regions. There are no photographs in the book.
T
he 200 recipes - including many of the author's '
particular favorites
' - are divided into:
Antipasti
;
Soups
;
Pasta
;
Rice, Polenta and Gnocchi
;
Fish and Seafood
,
Poultry and Game
;
Meat Dishes
;
Vegetable Dishes
;
Desserts, Cakes and Biscuits
;
Sauces
; and
Breads and Pizzas
. The second half of the book includes a comprehensive '
A-Z of Ingredients
' (including vegetables and cheeses), a listing of '
Terms & Techniques
', an overview of '
Italy Land of Vines
', and a helpful '
Wine Index
'.
T
he first Antipasti recipe, for
Hot Garlic and Anchovy Dip
, made me salivate. Soups such as
Tuscan Bean Soup
, seem hearty, a meal in themselves. I like the look of
Pasta 'Ncasciata
(a Sicilian pasta pie with eggs and eggplants), and plan to try
Risotto with Sea Bass
as well as
Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi
. Many of the sauces (at the end of the recipe section) appeal, including
Piedmontese Fondue
and
Dried Porcini Sauce
. My family often experiment with pizzas, and we'll enjoy trying the combinations here, especially
Pizza Rustica
.
F
rom a wide selection of seafood recipes, I like the look of a simple
Sole with Basil and Pine Nuts
. We eat a lot of chicken so I plan to try several recipes here, especially one with a mushroom sauce. The beef stews look straightforward and tasty. There are also wild boar and venison concoctions (if you can get the meat), and appetizing lamb and pork recipes - I intend to cook
Roast Leg of Lamb with Tiny Onions
for the family. Vegetable dishes include
Leek and Eggs with Butter and Parmesan
and
Grilled Red Radicchio
, as well as recipes for aubergines and peppers.
F
inally, desserts! I love
Zabaglione
, which is here along with instructions to make biscuits, cakes, puddings, nougat, sorbet, granita, and ice cream. If you enjoy Italian food, then
The Concise Gastronomy of Italy
belongs on your cookbook shelf, for its regional and historical information, and its extensive ingredients glossary, as much as for its tasty recipes.
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