Cathedrals of the Flesh: My Search for the Perfect Bath
by
Alexia Brue
Order:
USA
Can
Bloomsbury, 2004 (2003)
Hardcover, Paperback
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Reviewed by Hilary Williamson
A
lexia Brue takes her passion for baths all around the world in
Cathedrals of the Flesh
. The book's topic especially appealed to me - my fondest recollections of a mountain hiking trip in Japan were of its steaming baths (especially in the hot springs resort areas), though I found the scrap of towel provided for modesty at best symbolic. At the back of the book is a handy resource guide to public baths all over the world.
B
rue soaked in the social side of bathing from the '
hamams
' of Paris and Istanbul to the '
banyas
' of Russia, the '
saunas
' of Finland, and the '
sento
' and '
onsen
' of Japan. She even tried a '
Russian Turkish Bath
' on East 10th Street in New York City. She found baths to be '
places for relaxation, regeneration, occasional childhood regression, socializing, whimsical debauchery, and most of all, just free-spirited fun.
' Her aquatic journey started in the '
ornate Turkish steam baths
' of Paris - apparently France's four million Muslims imported a tradition that is important both in their social life and to their religion (a '
code of hygiene
' is detailed in the Koran). In Paris, Brue experienced '
gommage
' (being scrubbed with a horsehair mitt), and she and her friend Marina dreamed of opening their own '
hamam
', which of course inspired further dunking experiences in the name of cultural research.
N
ext came a variety of Istanbul
hamams
(where revolutionaries used to plot sedition) and a serendipitous encounter with an ancient bath's excavation in nearby Tulza. This fueled a desire to explore Greek and Roman ruins, which led the author to an archaeological dig in Isthmia, near Korinth. There she notes that the '
distinction between bathhouse and bordello has always been murky
' (with erotic frescoes found at a neighborhood bath in Pompeii), but that baths also often doubled as healing centers in the ancient world. In Russia, Brue met '
banya witches
' who wore kerchiefs to avoid split ends and flagellated with the '
veynik
' (a '
birch branch bouquet
'). She took lessons. The author calls Finland '
saunatopia
' and introduces us to its '
savusauna
' (the old style of '
smoke sauna
'). She quotes a doctor who talks of the rise in endorphin levels caused by the sauna experience.
F
inallly, Brue experienced both the '
sento
' (public baths) and the '
onsen
' (mineral hot springs) of Japan, where a friend tells her that '
the atmosphere of the bath makes possible a closeness rarely experienced otherwise in Japanese life.
' The bath motif is a unique and appealing motivation for travel, a special approach to quickly breaking down cultural barriers. Read
Cathedrals of the Flesh
, which might tempt you into a bathing adventure of your own.
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