Down the Nile: Alone in a Fisherman's Skiff
by
Rosemary Mahoney
Order:
USA
Can
Little, Brown & Co., 2007 (2007)
Hardcover
Read an Excerpt
Reviewed by Hilary Williamson
R
osemary Mahoney's
Down the Nile: Alone in a Fisherman's Skiff
has all the right ingredients for travel literature - an unusual adventure with the requisite amount of personal risk, an exotic foreign setting, and meaningful encounters with the people who inhabit it.
M
ahoney tells us, '
I had come to Egypt to take a row down the Nile
', in particular '
the 120-mile stretch of river between the cities of Aswan and Qena.
' Why would anyone want to do that, you ask? Mahoney rowed regularly after living on a small island in Maine, finding it '
a peaceful, meditative activity
' but also enjoying its challenges. After a visit to Egypt, she was fascinated by the north-flowing Nile, that '
had fostered whole cultures and inspired immense social and scientific concepts
'. Which may simply sum up to
because it is there
, a credo that inspired expeditions and explorations through the centuries.
M
ahoney had several major obstacles to overcome - the acquisition of a suitable rowboat; avoiding officialdom and its care for the safety of tourists in the wake of the terrorist attacks that damaged Egypt's tourism industry; and local cultural incomprehension of a woman undertaking such an adventure. Though she managed the latter by positioning the rowboat purchase as a surprise birthday present for her husband, it was still incredibly difficult to find one and her persistence is commendable.
R
owing on the Nile, something she'd often been told was impossible for a woman in Egypt, Rosemary Mahoney muses on her resentment of '
all the things people said one should and should not do ... People were always conjuring a wall up and telling you to stay on your side of it. More often than not, the wall was false, a cliché, an inherited and unexamined stock response to the world.
' Hear, hear!
A
long the way, she comments on Egyptian history, foreign rule, and modernization; Western countries' looting of Egyptian archeological treasures in the 1800s; visits to the country by personalities such as Florence Nightingale, Gustave Flaubert, and Amelia Edwards, and what they said about it in letters and journals; the origins of the term
booze
; and the habits of Nile crocodiles. If you enjoy travel literature, or are interested in Egypt, you'll find
Down the Nile
both engaging and informative.
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