Jaywalking with the Irish
by
David Monagan
Order:
USA
Can
Lonely Planet, 2004 (2004)
Paperback
Reviewed by Hilary Williamson
D
avid Monagan and his wife Jamie, both of Irish descent, take their children (Laura, Harris and Owen) on '
safari to Ireland
' because '
an inventory of achievements, possessions, and responsibilities revealed that certain intangibles had gone missing
' in their comfortable U.S. life. They leave Connecticut's '
hermetically sealed
' suburban worlds to seek '
adventure and renewal
' in Hibernia, where both David and Jamie had traveled before. They settle in Cork, where '
chancers and dreamers and misfits
' are valued.
R
eaders share with Monagan bar friendships; the serendipities of meeting people all over the country with connections to others that he knew in past visits and to friends of his American relatives; musings on past tragedies, in particular the horrendous impact of the potato famine; and discoveries the family make as they explore the countryside around them, and find links to history everywhere, including some of '
more than 40,000 megalithic formations casually scattered about the Irish landscape, invariably with no fanfare or visible sign indicating their existence.
'
A
ll is not idyllic however, even in County Cork where people '
laugh louder and longer ... than any other place on earth
'. Local teen bullies persistently harrass the family; violence escalates in the city at night; the bureaucracy seems at times impenetrable; the culture, while ever friendly on the surface, is hard to break into, in terms of settling in and finding work; and Ireland's reaction to 9/11 includes '
heartless punditry
' as well as a national day of mourning. Despite all, Monagan loves, and writes lyrically about, Eire and Cork, a '
small and irrepressible city fueled by grandiose visions, a little engine that could.
'
H
aving grown up in the north and traveled all over Ireland in the 70s, I was fascinated to read how the country has been changed, for better and worse, by strong economic growth. I enjoyed
Jaywalking with the Irish
for its presentation of very many quirky characters (Monagan quotes an old friend saying '
Every person I meet makes me larger
'), but especially for its welcome, insightful, and clearly focused update on a country too often looked at through rose-colored North American lenses.
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