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Eating: A memoir    by Jason Epstein order for
by Jason Epstein
Order:  USA  Can
Anchor, 2010 (2009)
Hardcover, Softcover, e-Book

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* *   Reviewed by Mary Ann Smyth

Eating by Jason Epstein (a legendary publisher and editor of several great chefs) is a delightful combination of good memories and foods connected to those memories. Not only is the focus on delicious eating experiences, but they are happily accompanied by recipes.

Epstein believes in simple foods cooked to perfection. Not laden with sauces and gravies or dressings. Just good, wholesome and tasteful food brought to its peak by careful cooking.

Not that his recipes are difficult. They aren't. Maybe a bit of prep and, be warned, there are no photographs. But with his instructions, the reader and/or cook can almost taste the richness of Lobster Rolls, the flavor of Braised Duck with Olives, the crispness of Chicken Under a Brick.

I noticed that Epstein favors using arrowroot to coat chicken parts and other coatable bits. He also likes to use Hellman's Mayonnaise for Lobster Rolls and other dishes that he feels will benefit from that distinctive taste.

If Fried Rice is your downfall, he has a detailed recipe for you. Blue and Black Hamburger makes its stand. Shad Roe with Sorrel Sauce would have made my mother very happy. And I intend to enjoy Alice's Bouillabaise.

For some wonderful memories that are not your own but that Epstein is willing to share in this mouthwatering culinary tour, pick up a copy of Eating.

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